Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Stars and Stripes

Living overseas for as long as I did gave me a unique appreciation for the American flag, particularly given where I spent the past 25 years. When I lived in Warsaw, Poland, it was in the dark times of the Iron Curtain, and during a particularly difficult time in U.S./Polish relations. Every now and then, my husband and I would get into our bright red Volkswagen Golf, and head to West Berlin, where we could revel in all the blessings of capitalism, buying food supplies, eating at Italian or Japanese restaurants, seeing bright lights and well-stocked shops... To get there, however, we had to drive across Poland, on a two-lane highway, that was also the major local thoroughfare and, at times, village street. One had to compete with horses and carts, mothers and babies, old men, chickens, etc. for the road. During the winter when it was icy, the drive was particularly dangerous.

Crossing the border from Poland to East Germany was particularly unnerving. We spoke Polish, and the Polish guards seemed a bit lacksadaisical about their job. The East German guards, however, were another matter. They spoke no English or Polish, and we no German. They barked instead of speaking, and looked us, our car, and our documents over with great suspicion and thoroughness. We always breathed a sigh of relief after getting past those guards.

One time, due to highway construction, we had to take a long detour and eventually found ourselves quite lost in the middle of East Germany. Our documents only allowed us to transit the country, not sightsee or "spy" as I'm sure they would assume. As day passed into dusk, I felt that our red Volkswagen had turned into a neon target, with a big USA sticker on the back in case there were any doubt. Wherever we turned the car, we would come upon large signs reading in German, French, English, and Russian: "Entrance forbidden to members of foreign military liaison missions." Now, we weren't with any military liaison mission, foreign or otherwise, but we had the feeling there would be shooting first, followed, if necessary, by questions later. In fact, a U.S. colonel stationed in West Germany (probably with a military liaison mission, but that didn't make us feel any better) had been shot and killed in just such an area not long before.

Somehow, we managed to find the right highway, and headed into West Berlin via Checkpoint Bravo. The sight of the American flag fluttering over the gates was a particularly beautiful one that day, one we'll never forget. Yes, it is a symbol, and it is a symbol that is seen in different ways by different people. But I can tell you that, at least at that time in that part of the world, it was truly a symbol of freedom. It still gives me goosebumps all these years later when I think about seeing that flag that day.

This will only be the second 4th of July we will celebrate here in the U.S. for many years. In commemoration of all the good that this day means, and the freedoms that our flag is supposed to represent, I made a pair of earrings, perhaps my last for a while on the theme of stars. I call them Stars and Stripes or Simply Stars, because the little ruby, cobalt and white Swarovski bicones can be detached.

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